Location: Ludaritz, Namibia
Just a very quick update.
I spent a week in Cape Town (just an amazing city hope everyone is green with envy). Glad to be going back there to end the trip.
I got itchy feet being without a bike as mines not due untill 2nd of March. So ive hired a bike (BMW 650 Dakar). A bit small and gutless but cheep and almost new so happy days .
I headed North along the Cape coast road with Namibia in my sights. Finally cracking the 500miles in a day. ( no need to hurry just a personal goal i wanted to achieve).
I had no real idea of what to expect , but soon realised that there are only TWO TARMAC roads east to west and ONE north to south. The rest is gravel tracks . S***T , B*****er , A****le , P****s.
And a few others thrown in .And Namibia is MUCH bigger than England!!!!!!!
Well this is NOW an adventure and IM on my OWN.
First day Fish river Canyon (the second largest Canyon in the world to the crappy one in USA) .
I ride for FOUR hours and dont see a soul no bugger anywhere. No cars pass me and none coming the other way.
I Shit you not this is a lonely place to be. But this is what adventures are made of. When the going gets tough some people go home (sorry).
Foolhardy, stupid , oh yea too bloody right but exciting oh my god yes. With the fuel light on! no service on my phone!.and NOTHING as far as the eye could see.
Well thats it till next time folks !!!!!!!!!!!!!! as bugs bunny would say.
Location: cape coast, Ghana
Mr Bill.. ( yes or no ? )
After 2 hot as hell days trying to sort bike in Tema . Plane or Boat or throw it in the sea? I decided I needed a little R&R.
A look at the map and lonely planet book (my bible ) said go West towards Cape Coast.
3hours later dripping with sweat covered in road grime and sand I rock up in Cape Coast . The Bible comes out and tells me that there is only one place in town to stay. "a nice clean hotel a few years ago but lost its shine and now is rather scruffy"
Sounded just like my kind of place.( Well there wasnt a choice)
I rode into the deserted car park down a potholed drive. Umm!!
Leaping from nowhere 3 security guards rushed to my aid.
Reception? I asked.
The first bloke ripped my tank bag out of my hand and becconed me to follow him.
An Enormously rotund ( Fat cow ) greated me with a smile.
" How much is your cheepest room" " well have you got anything cheeper ?? " By the state of the empty car park the hotel was deserted.
Yes Sir 45 cidis about 20 quid a night . " I will have a room if you include breakfast" Of course Sir . IM IN !!
7pm and Im bleedin starvin . Nice clean room but yes very rough around the edges.
Down by the pool YES pool. the resterant. More important than belly is always throat. " any cold beer? " No just wine . Ok a bottle of white please .
As normal after a couple of glasses my hunger has gone.
I take a sneeky look into the carpark to check on the bike in the now stinking hot darkness.
Three figures are stood around it gently talking . I creep up behind and shout loudly. DONT YOU f--kERS TOUCH IT .
The 3 mighty security men Shit themselves .!!!
Making light of the situation I offer a handshake to them in turn.
Still feeling guilty my glass of wine is handed round to calm their nerves. That does the trick.
Questions are soon fireing . Where are you from ? Did you ride this bike the whole way? ETC ETC
I sat down with the three mighty men for 6 hours .
Every subject was covered from bikes to religion ( this being their favorite subject)
After acouple of hours I became aware that these men were looking and listening to my every word intently. Very unnerving at first . But then it seemed quite nice. Better than being ignored.
Before I retired one of the men Francis said that he would look after me for my stay . Odd I thought , but hey ho.
Yhe only thing I had seen of interest in m,y bible was a 300ft high rope walk . I told my new friends and Francis offered to accompany me next day. I said I would be ready at 10 am . We chatted till 230 am and off up the wooden hill I went.
They didnt finnish their 12hr shift till 6am
At 9am on the dot a knock at the door woke me .
"Mr Bill Im ready to accompany you. "
I rushed a bit of breakfast and went to my bike .
It had been washed and pollished . ( I had kept it looking shitty so as not to look too flash)
Removing all the stuff from the back ,Tent etc left just enough room for my guide. " hey Francis Im NOT paying you to come with me" " OH no Mr Bill Its my duty to look after you "
For the whole day I was treated with complete reverence.
Francis would rush ahead with my cold bottle of water waiting for me at every turn .
This must be like being Prince Charles I thought .
Francis can only speek the most broken english but im convinced he has had a great couple of days . Being on the back of the bike and showing me the sights of Ghana .
My room has been tidied and cleaned immaculatly washing done etc etc and MR Bill Is the talk of the hotel.
Im leaving tomorrow and will be sad to go. But will I be sad to no longer be Mr Bill??
Livvy and Mum are coming to see me in Cape Town soon I CANT WAIT . Not long now Girls . Get them boddies tanned xx I will be flying back with Livvy ,looking forward to being back home with her . The love of my life its too long to be apart. The South America part of the trip will happen soon but we will do it together .
Location: cape coast, Ghana
By now im sure most of you know that Steve and I have parted company. No big fall out or anything just got on each others tits too often. I wish him all the very best with the continuation of his trip. Stay safe my friend.
I have ridden from the top of Ghana to the bottom. A fantastically beautiful country with the southern half being lush rainforrest. The only downside is the weather,Its SPASTICALLY hot and humid. Ten mins on the bike and your wet through with sweat.My plan now is to try and get the bike to South Africa .The countys main port is Tema .Where I spent 2 days pulling my hair out.Anyway the upshot is that airfraight is stupidly expensive. So Im shipping bike to Cape Town.And im flying. I will arrive Tuesday 12th. Bike arrives 3weeks later. In the mean time Im going to hire a bike and ride up to Namibia.Hope this makes sence.
So next entry from Cape Town
Sorry no pics Steve has card reader for camera.
Location: Near Banjul, Gambia
Arnt we lucky . Another internet cafe that works just.
Well we are now in The Gambia. We had a couple of days riding through Senegal. The difference between Senegal and Mauritania is amazing.Some people even pick the litter up here . Not many mind you but a few. Senegal is so much greener than anything we have seen before. Everyone seems happy and the women dress is such colourfull clothes. We met a solo biker on another BMW just as we were getting toward the Mauritanian border. This turned out to be a godsend as his gps was far better than our.(he actually knew how to use it). The border crossing at Rosso was apparently a total nightmare so a ride of 70 miles all off road was needed.This beat he shit out of us and the bikes. Dust; pot holes that tried to swollow my bike as I was looking at a bloody great warthog by the side of the road.Just a really hard road that we were glad to see the end of.
So in Senegal. We arrive at a coastal town St Louis. Tim the other BMW rider stayed with us for 2 nights .
St Louis is a great place Fish Fish and more Fish. We all watched a local bloke stand on the shore with a net about 3mtrs round. He just threw it into the sea and pulled out 6 or 7 bloody great fish each cast. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
We carried on south towards Gambia . WE stopped at a town called Thies Near Dakar. The only place to stay in the whole town was a hotel in the looset term.But hey did have Beer GREAT.
We were so knackered we just took our beer and sat out on the street . We were soon the centre of attention. A couple of great hours spent talking to the locals. See photo of the old boy with the mobile. He pleeded poverty for 2hours begging us to buy something . Then promptly pulled his phone out of his pocket and called a cab. Cheeky old sod,But great fun .
We rode into the Gambian boarder . The best Queens English spoken by all . Well not quite but we could just about understand what the 15year old official guard was saying . So into the Gambia we didnt even have to bribe the officials to let us in .
We had arranged to do some charity work for Riders for health who are a large charity based in Banjul .
A few frantic phonecalls to a bloke I couldnt understand (Lemin). Who was to meet us off the ferry at Banjul.
So the ferry crossing .
Try to get 6 40ton trucks 50 cars 4 motorbikes and 200people onto a boat made for 1 truck 20 cars and 50 people. You get the picture.
Steve and I were danced around the deck like twats on ice (you know the program). Until we both said F**k it got off our bikes an refused to move .
An hour on the sardean packed boat and into the dock at Banjul.
A large black gent lept infront of us. Trying not to flatten him we guessed this was our man .
We followed Lemin to the RFH main depot. Quite an impressive place but being Friday at 4pm it was empty. After a brief look round we followed our guide to our accomodation .
A lodge /hotel on the outskirts of town . Clean and tidy even a small pool ,well happy.
We spent the next 2days buggering about and doing laundry etc. Excited about our weeks work starting Monday.
Being TRUE BRITS we arrived at work bang on time 8 27am .
Ummm where is every one ????????
By 8 50 Lemin turned up and made us a coffee. We Must wait for the big boss Thereese. Milling about doing nothing much we decided to change the tyres on our bikes rather than do nothing.
10 50 the boss arrives by choufer driven Suzuki jeep.
11am is the official lunch break till 1pm
Thereese wafts around like the queen mum everyone treating her with reverance.(except us)
Oh! you rode your motorbikes here she exclaimed !
What do you want to do to help us??
This had all been explaind months before so Steve and I looked at each other in dissbelief.
Well Steve you go with this man and Bill you go with this one.
We went outside and eagerly awaited instuction .
The 2 hour lunch time had finnished (officially) so now was the time for the (workers to start their sarnies)
With a staff of 35 in the workshop 33 sat and chatted with feet up the whole time we were there 5 hours .
We began to loose heart and made our excusses .Beer oclock for us.
The next day we were taken on a trip to a couple of remote villages. this was great for Steve as there were water treatment tanks being built ( steve loves that stuff)
It was good to see places that so few people ever get to see. Steve got all emotional I Didnt .
Anyway our charity work has ended sadly. We felt we were waisting our time. between us we think we are a couple of pretty usefull fellas but they just had nothing for us to do.
The next bit of our trip will probably be the most difficult. We are heading Due East towards Bamako in Mali . Very few of the roads are paved and this makes rideing hard dusty and bloody knackering .
Not sure when the next report will be as internet is becoming harder and harder to find .
Love to everyone .
Location: Near Dakar, Senegal
Hello Again everyone,
We are in Senegal; Hot Hot Hot , This will have to be brief because the internet cafe is from the stoneage and could crash at any moment.The last page left off in Marakesh; well weve come a bloody long way since then.
We went on the train to Rabat to get our visas from the Mauritanian embassy.The thought of an embassy usually coungers up thoughts of a grand building nice polite security guards and a nice cup of tea for the English gentlemen . Not on your Nelly.
This was a shitty little basement in a back street a small hole cut in some plywood was all that is between you and the scruffy man in charge . Well all apart from the throng of noisy smelly pushing and shoving muslims.
48 hrs later back on the train to Marakesh 800 mile round trip in first class for 12 quid Bargain.
Leaving Marakesh we headed west for the coast and Essouria.
As soon as we arrived i had a text message from my old mate Toby Moody. Dakar rally cancelled BOLLOCKS !!!!!!
Hey ho. well how the hell are we going to get through Mauritania I thought . 5 French tourists had bin shot ( no loss there then hey ).
Anyway we pressed on down the cost through Costa Del Morroc or Agadir as its known. We had a few days here but not really a place I would want to spend too long .
A good sspurt across the Western Sahara hot and bloody windy due south to a small peninsula calld Dakhla. Just the most amazing scenary ever . like the surface of the moon . we found the only hotel in town where we met a poshly spoken English girl . she invited us to stay on her and her husbands campsite ( campshitte)
Oh yes its got toilets she said oh and a Resterant .
Right by the sea she said free fishing . So the next day we left the hotel in search of the campsite . Steve had been suffering with the shits big time and when we arrived he almost fainted in disgust . Oh well I sat by the sea and waited for the poor boy to feel better .
Our next hurdle was Mauritania . we had decided that it would be safe to ride through as long as we were quick and didnt stop unnecessarily . We got to the boarder by lunchtime and qued like civilised Brits . When that didnt work we shoved our way to the front . That worked just fine . We rode out of Morroco int nomans land . Oh my god A 6 mile bumpy dirt track with blown up cars on either side . Dont worry we were not going to stray off course . We were sweaty nervous recks when we dripped up to the impressive NOT wooden hut of the Mauri national guard . Ha Ha Ha . Stamps in passports and a few grim looks we rode forth to Nouadiboo.
When I said Cassablanca was a shit hole I Lied . This town consisted of 3feet of stinking rubbish lineing the streets a couple of miles before town and the pile got higher as we approched town centre . Goats everywhere donkeys the main form of transport . You get the picture .
We then headed for the capital Nouachott . slightly more upmarket there were horses as transport ;
The country was pretty much desert sand all over the roads and a distinct feel of poverty .
Out of Mauri and into Senegal . You will have to wait for the next eppisode as that Dave Kimberly Is hastleing me to look at his email ; Will try and add photos soon ; Love to everyone
Location: Marakesh, Morocco
Happy New Year !!
Well we are in Marakesh :Again: And for all you buggers who think we have been here for a week , Your wrong . We have actually done about 1000bum numbing miles since Christmas day! Yes we bloody well have .
So while youve all been scoffing mince pies and falling asleep in front of the telly whilst watching another episode of Only fools and horses, 2of us hve done a bit of exploreing .
We need to get visas for Mauritania , But the embassy in Rabat is closed until Jan 2nd.
We packed the bikes up and waved a fond farewell to marakesh and headed South east for Ouarzazate , Pronounced Whazzat.
To get here we had to go over the Tizi n test pass. 7000feet up in the high Atlas mountains Bleedin freezin on the bikes but a great ride . It would make a bloody good hill climb , and I prtended I was on one . much to the disgust of on coming traffic Ha Ha .
A bloody cold night in a stupidly cheep hotel and a couple of beers in the posh hotel up the road with Steve and Jim ( still got the cockerknee following on ) . Then we pressed on towards the Dades george . Steve woke up with Marakesh movements and had to insist on a fresh roll of bog roll in his tank bag in case of any Emergency stops .
Again we climbed up and up into the snow covered mountains . the old rangerover blowing puffs of smoke at every gear change . we Finally arrived at a very remote village where we found A TRAFFIC JAM . oh yes the mountain hopping bus had arrived and about 100 men were trying to clamber aboad ( honest there wer loads of the buggers all shouting and yellin )
Light was falling as fast as the temerature so we turned around and headed back down to a tiny hotel at the bottom of the mountain 20 a night each inc Dinner and Breakfast cant be bad;
Next morning the 3kings head for the Desert . Our destination was Maaaaguusssa ( perfect spelling)
Mile after mile of amazing scenery perfect roads 90mph sweeping bends a bikers shangrila.
Jim flicked through his rough guide at a fuel stop and we decided on our hotel for the night was to be the Timbuctoo;
We found the sign on the side of the road and it pointed 2km across the desert . Ummmmm. Our first bit of off roading . The rangey went first kicking up a sand storm behind, so the to Somerset lads blasted past in style . Somerset 1 Cokerney 0
Well the sandy twats arrived only to be told No Rooooms No Rooooms . BALLS or something like that !!!!
Well what have you got Mr Nice Man ???
A tent ! A loverly Bedowin tent for you sir .
By Bedowin he meant a few blankets hanging over some wooden poles . At 10 pounds a night it suited us just fine .
We were cajoaled into a camel ride which we all enjoyed especially as I had a full hip flask ; just to keep out the evening chill you understand .
Next day we headed back 2 more days towards Marakesh . Over the mountains again leaving Steve for dead on the hillclimd sections . ( not that its a competition or anything )
We managed to get back in the Ibis the room next to our old one great ,
What did we do New Years eve Bugger All
Steve was Asleep by 11 30 and I wandered about aimlessly .
But even Explorers need a rest sometimes !!