CARM' TRAVEL ADVENTURES

Saturday, 04 October 2014

Location: Leon, Spain

Good Morning Leon
It's early and I've already walked for over an hour watching the cafés open, the streets fill with people and the cars making the roundabout more frequently. I'm on the hunt for a perfect place to perch, enjoy the view and have breakfast . I literally stumble over a red cafe chair just waiting for me in the square wanting me to enter. The shop is glistening with hundreds of beautiful pastries. Nothing as mundane as breakfast and everything as enticing as sin. How could I resist ? The Cafe Con Leche is divine. The small circular custard tart is nested in a flowered foil paper served on Spanish glazed pottery. Layers of delicate pastry, support a whisper thin custard, four thinly sliced apples form a rosette in the centre of the liquid glaze. It's a showstopper.
I've lost control of my fork that is hastily shoveling the tart into my mouth. It's no use the pastry and the coffee have disappeared leaving me sad and lustily eyeing the display case wanting more.
I notice a growing queue . The place is quickly filling up with patrons all lining up to buy a twisted little doughnut especially made for this week. It's the feast of St. Froilan and the doughnuts are going fast. I ask the barista for half a dozen. 3.60 euros later I walk them down the grand avenue clutching them like newborn chicks. They're for the owner of my hostel Ingma a thoroughly lovely woman who speaks impeccable English. She has promised to take me to the country to pick grapes and make wine. I'm Happy Happy Happy
The Camino provides

Saturday, 04 October 2014

Location: Leon, Spain

Beautiful Leon a base for the Roman legion sprawls lazily along the banks of the Rio Barnesega. A harmonious mixture of architectural style the city nudges over making room for it all. From my hotel, I can see the old Roman wall wobbly but still standing on it's ancient footings. I turn left past the impossibly narrow lane of cafés and shops to find myself face to face with the only Gaudi building in Leon.
The Neo-Gothic Casa de Botines is as spectacular as it's controversial history. Apparently, when challenged by the city to reduce it's overall height, Gaudi merely truncated the drawings, leaving the building roofless then submitted it back to the city planners. Gaudi had made his point the construction continued encumbered. It is truly remarkable. An elegant stately edifice positioned along the main thoroughfare wetting our appetite for the magnificent cathedral. The best in Spain and second best in Europe.

Saturday, 04 October 2014

Location: Leon, Spain

Beautiful Leon a base for the Roman legion sprawls lazily along the banks of the Rio Barnesega. A harmonious mixture of architectural style the city nudges over making room for it all. From my hotel, I can see the old Roman wall wobbly but still standing on it's ancient footings. I turn left past the impossibly narrow lane of cafés and shops to find myself face to face with the only Gaudi building in Leon.
The Neo-Gothic Casa de Botines is as spectacular as it's controversial history. Apparently, when challenged by the city to reduce it's overall height, Gaudi merely truncated the drawings, leaving the building roofless then submitted it back to the city planners. Gaudi had made his point the construction continued encumbered. It is truly remarkable. An elegant stately edifice positioned along the main thoroughfare wetting our appetite for the magnificent cathedral. The best in Spain and second best in Europe.

Friday, 03 October 2014

Location: Terradillos de Los Templarios, Spain

Early Morning Walk with my Japanese Friends.
It's dark in the video because it's early in the morning . It was another red letter day on the camino.
I got a particularly early start, again in the pitch dark. It close to 6:30 and the sky is a masterful rendition of the word Compostela, filled with stars. It was a particularly stellar morning. Just as I was about to leave, a Japanese woman and her friend struck up a conversation with me. The next thing I knew we were a happy threesome all heading out into the dark together. It was a moment of serendipitous good fortune. It turns out that the three of us are all single with no children. We are also a year apart in age. 61,62 and 63 and we have all just retired. We quickly christened ourselves the three sisters communicating as well as we could, amusing ourselves to death. We laughed and sang songs that we both knew encouraging each other on the way.
Here is their rendition of a Japanese Good Morning song. It's dark in the video because it's so very early in the morning.

Saturday, 27 September 2014

Location: Meseta, Spain

The Meseta
I have now entered the Meseta. It is largely a treeless and windblown, plateau blistering hot even in September.
It's harvest time and the meseta is shimmering gold with cereal crops.
Everywhere farm machinery hums in the scorching heat gathering up summer's labour of love. Walls of hay bales stand piled tall and wide in the fields .
The road ahead retreats in dusty piles of rocks. For miles the stark and arid landscape of the Meseta stretches out into the distance allowing for an uninterrupted and clear view of the few camouflaged villages that still stand. This is the heart of Castile. I imagine a Great War with the Christians thundering across the plains conquering the Muslims.
The people of the Meseta have been defined as sober, and ascetic with perhaps a touch of visionary madness. It is in the Meseta that Don Quixote, was born. The mystical St John of the Cross, stubborn St Teresa of Avila, and El Cid.

Saturday, 27 September 2014

Location: Horillios, Spain

I started out at St. Jean Pied de Port with 785 kilometers to Santiago.
I am now in Hornillos De Camino 497 kilometers from Santiago. By my calculations I have walked 288 kilometers from my starting point.
I've walked across Navarra, La Rioja and Castilla Y Leon Burgos,
Castilla Y Leon Palencia. Tomorrow I enter Castilla Y Leon Leon.

Friday, 26 September 2014

Location: Burgos, Spain

👍☎️Museum of Human Evolution.
The home of our species. Has it really taken us 70 million years to walk, talk, run and climb?
Juan Navarro Baldeweg's light filled, transparent cube of diaphanous space takes us on a journey tracing our ancestors. This prism shaped building serves as both public space and museum. This spectacular museum in Burgos evokes the landscape of the Sierra Atapuerca and its incredible body of knowledge that has literally been dug out of the earth. The displays are in themselves a feast for the eyes in their technical engineering and visual appeal. Really marvellous. I fell in love with the building that floats in the plaza across the river.

Friday, 26 September 2014

Location: Bilbao, Spain

I have planned a segway to Bilbao see the Guggenheim which is only an hour North of Pamplona.
The Albergues in Bilbao
is very close to the bus terminal. I enter the room to find bed sheets , pillowcases, fresh towels soap, a telephone, lights and plugs by the bed. Ordinary things that seems so very luxurious when you put them in perspective . I share this room with Gretchen whom I've met on the bus.

Friday, 26 September 2014

Location: Bilbao, Spain

Getting to Bilbao

Arrived in Bilbao at around 11.00 about half an hour late as we were detained at a military checkpoint. Generally these situations warrant that we shut up get out our passports and wait patiently not speaking until we're spoken to: no asking, only answering questions as clearly and precisely without a smile until the police are done. Not the Spanish who began complaining not ten minutes after we were stopped. Several people got off the bus to have a smoke and were told to step back on, undeterred they all hung on to the last step satisfying themselves. The bus driver spoke in an audible voice to the dispatcher complaining; it was the oddest thing. When he finished, the officer, like a cheery little green cricket backed out of the bus repeating the words sorry sorry in English. Odd was not the word, it was entirely incredulous.

Friday, 26 September 2014

Location: Bilbao, Spain

Leaving Bilbao
The skies over Bilbao have been pelting rain since six this morning luckily the bustling bus terminal is immune. It's another 30 minutes before I board the bus to Panplona where I'll pick up the camino again. Life is not as rich as the grapes served up on a plastic bag on my backpack tray. They are sweet and juicy and bursting with Spanish sunlight. It's all so very good.

Friday, 26 September 2014

Location: Burgos, Spain

Burgos
I've spent much of the day walking with my pilgrim friend. Like typical tourists, our heads are turned skyward and we turn 360 degrees taking in the church spires that pierce the sky some fifty feet above. The city map dangling from our hands, we let our feet guide us down narrow roads that open up into impressive plazas; meeting place filled with coffee shops, tapas bars and great restaurants. The old city was built for people. Sidewalks take up the entire road leaving barely enough room for a vehicle to navigate single file through it's one way streets. The city is beautiful. It is full of whimsical sculptures and cobbled walkways. A river snakes below arched bridges and walkways.
My pilgrim friend and I walk for hours before we settle in for dinner which is a luxurious gastronomical break in our long journey.
We make our way back to the hotel a little inebriated but grateful for a much needed stop along the Camino.

Friday, 26 September 2014

Location: Burgos, Spain

Burgos the Albergues.
A fellow pilgrim and I have found a fabulous place. The owner is an effusive and impossibly handsome middle aged man. He is tall, gracious, so impressive in his mustache and houndstooth jacket that I can barely focus on what he's saying. Almost drooling, I blurt out to the young English speaking receptionist beside him "He is so handsome", she immediately translates and he blushes like a teenager whispering an audible thank you.
I give the reception an admonishing smile and she laughs heartily . The Spaniard, he's a hugger who kisses you on both cheeks then once again for good measure. He wants to do everything to make us comfortable. The room is twenty euros each a steal for this great city. A quick walk up two flights of stairs and we are agog at the sight of the room: pristine white sheets, well appointed bathroom with a tub a bidet, fresh towels and a view to take your breath away. The two double beds positioned side by side look out into the courtyard of the old church. The large French windows open out into the plaza that flows into the narrow road, it's hanging baskets billowing from filigree balconies. I follow the ornate light standards that disappear into the next beautiful plaza. I look at the pilgrim stranger standing beside me and declare, "I've already said yes to this room", he agrees.

Friday, 26 September 2014

Location: Burgos, Spain

Touching Down in Burgos
The Library
I can't believe our good luck. We've found a place for the night in a lovely Albergues right next to the "modernista" library. The library's glass facade stretches like a sprawling glacier along the north wall. This fourteenth century church that once served as a pilgrim hospital burned down eons ago leaving nothing but the perimeter stone walls. The walls, festooned with detailed religious iconography, and images of their rich benefactors pause only at massive arches that are the doorways into the church. The sun is shining brightly on the garden that was once the church's interior. Deep green vines with pendulous orange blooms hug the wall. A statue of a woman stands sentinel by the rose garden. A delightful slinky like, wobbly steel sculpture moves wildly when pushed, providing ample entertainment for library patrons, pilgrims and tourists alike each finding solace in this sacred space.

Wednesday, 24 September 2014

Location: Bilbao, Spain

Jeff Koons: Tulips.
Fun fun fun that's all I can say about Tulips.
It is a reflective stainless steel bouquet of multicolor balloon flowers blown up to a massive two meters tall and five meters across. What's not to like about it ? Pure unadulterated fun fun fun.

Wednesday, 24 September 2014

Location: Bilbao, Spain

Bilbao: Puppy :Jeff Koons
mega massive Puppy weaves a fine line between popular and elite culture. It reminds me of the great topiary gardens of Versailles.
This is no small puppy it's been called "A behemoth West Highland terrier carpeted in bedding plants." At over 43 feet, the scale is indeed imposing and fills the viewer with awe and delight. Entirely lovable, dignified and loyal the Puppy stands guard in front of the gallery.

Wednesday, 24 September 2014

Location: Bilbao, Spain

Bilbao,
A Basque autonomous land, perched on the northern tip of the Iberian peninsula Bilbao opens it's arms, offering vista views of the hydrological artery and the neighborhoods on either side of it.
On one side, affluent apartments hug the mountain side offering a magnificent view of the city. The other bank holds one of it's many treasures the Guggenheim.
Even as the train pulls into the station, I am filled with anticipation and excitement. I've heard so much about the Guggenheim , Frank Gehry's masterpiece, hailed as the most important structure of it's time . Just as I cross the bridge , it comes into sight eliciting such an extraordinary reaction that I find myself crying great big tears. In the bright sunlight , it is all I thought it would be. Unable to move, I stand transfixed, mesmerized by the flow of the building. When I am able to move I walk slowly towards it. It is a marriage of solid steel flowing seamlessly, playfully in a game of hide and seek and the massive plaza below that supports it. It literally seems to float revealing it's audacity as you move around it to your right. Then suddenly it is another entity if you walk around the building to your left. It's a feast for the eye; a work of human ingenuity, engineering prowess, architectural genius and pure childlike playfulness of the artist. I took my time walking, walking, walking hoping not to miss anything. In the plaza, two musicians were serenading the awestruck tourist like myself. I could not help but grab a young man and dance a wee waltz to the music. I was truly HAPPY knowing that it's ok to cry when faced with extraordinary beauty of any kind.

Wednesday, 24 September 2014

Location: Espinal, Spain

Albergue Night in Espinal
At the end of our 8km trail, snuggled in the foothills of the Pyrenees we can see the village of Espinal nestled under ocher colored tiles each house hugging the other snaking up the mountain road. It's the gurgle of the water trough that welcomes you to the village. Every hamlet has a fountain, some, more elaborate than the other, each a delight for sore feet and parched palates. The bright yellow scallop shell directs us past the lavender gardens, the billowing flower boxes and the gothic church that inhabits the centre of every town where we find our beautiful resting spot for tonight. Masses of fragrant lavender bushes hug the red wrought iron fence that has long served as the stake for massive roses that bloom on thorny canes. The foothills are amass with wild flowers that sometimes make way for a garden plot, ripe with fragrant onions, rich ripe tomatoes, collard greens and scrambling beans.
I've washed and hung my laundry outside, and wait in this pristine room with five bunk beds for a pilgrim dinner that promises to be hearty and filled with the Catalonian zest for food and wine.

Wednesday, 24 September 2014

Location: Pamplona, Spain

Street Festival Pompano
I've followed a happy noise down the winding street and there it was banners, flags, political commentary and a whole lit of Basque bandanas calling for separation. Each of the bars has a long table filled with plates full of tapas. I get a beer and I'm told that the tapas is free. As many as you want. I walked up and down the street sampling the beer joining in the revelry. Lots of music, lots of dancing and unlimited beer and wine. Just a Saturday afternoon in Pamplona.

Wednesday, 24 September 2014

Location: Paris, France

Trying To Get Going
I've been up since 6:30 listening to the sounds of birds serenading the roses in the gardens below. It was my hope to take an early morning walk then over to the cathedral to attend Sunday mass. Sadly, I am unable to leave the apartment. Curses to dry fit, curses to quick dry. There is no such thing. Oh yes, parts of my trousers I washed last night are dry but the really important parts like the crotch, the waist band and the hems have no interest in shedding their moisture. I'm trying to coax them to dry even a little more by draping them near the open balcony window. I can almost hear you asking the question Don't you have another pair? No damn it no. I'm in minimalist camino gear. One pair of pants and the other bottoms is something called a Macabee skirt. Another unnecessary purchase I could have done without. The Macabee skirt was invented by an intrepid female traveller. It's a knee length nylon affair that is water resistant , wind proof and dries easily. It has a strap between the legs that is supposed to hoist up the skirt to form instant pants. Being from India, It was clear that this "lungi" like contraption was the answer. It afforded privacy if I needed to squat in the woods, it could be used as a ground cover in case I felt like resting in the grass. It doubled as a blanket for those cold nights, it made a jolly good tent and the real selling point was that it could easily be turned into shorts with a quick clip in each side. Such a winning garment was certainly a must have for the camino. Surprisingly this all purpose "thing" was most unsuitable for the Parisian scene. I dare not wear it as I fear I will look like the many Roma women whose families have succumbed to life on the streets. I dread that someone will hand me a sandwich or an euro while shaking their heads in utmost pity at my appearance . No I'm still sitting in my underwear admiring the window boxes waiting for my pants to dry so I can meet Isabelle for a 1:00 appointment at the swanky Champs Elyees.